Jumping on a bus quite satisfied that I had successfully navigated 3 days in Marrakech, I had a great feeling about my next adventure…
Essaouira
I nabbed myself a window seat and got lost in the scenery for the first leg of the trip. The second half seemed to go soooo slow however I managed to catch a few Z’s and read my book to pass the time.
Coming into town along the foreshore I had a familiar feeling wash over me. Maybe it was the energy of the sea and the waves, or the palms and wide foreshore parks that reminded me of my own tourist town of the Gold Coast. There was definitely a vacation feel to the outskirts of the medina.
Disembarking the bus, I waited for my host who insisted on meeting me to guide me to the riad I was staying in. Naima found me and was so warm and welcoming with a beautiful big smile and arms open. I felt like a long lost friend in minutes as we walked a short way to the walls of the medina. Naima kindly helped me note landmarks to help guide my investigations of the city without getting lost and we quickly came upon the riad.
I stepped inside and the cool house overwhelmed my senses with amazing decor, gorgeous design and that rustic, Moroccan flavour that got better and better each level of the house that we climbed. It featured a stunning atrium roof that poured natural light down the centre shaft of the house.
Settling In
I settled my things in my room and got the down low on do’s and don’t’s for a solo western female traveller in a coastal town on the far north west coast of the African continent. Lots of unemployed men in town look for travellers just like me to prey on in order to get access to wealthier properties in the medina. And this house had treasure over nearly every inch of the 5 levels! Lucky I’m no easy mark and the local knowledge Naima imparted to me made sure I felt secure and happy!
I rested for a little bit and then refreshed myself, took a time out on the rooftop terrace and then headed into town to meet a man called Anwar who I had booked a horseback tour to an oasis an hour north of the medina. Anwar and I chatted in one of the cafes and shared a cold drink. We organised to meet the next day and parted as friends.
Falling in Love
I wandered around the large square along the rocky walled shores of the city. I poked around in shops and laneways and felt thoroughly blissed out. I really loved this place, it wasn’t so big and overwhelming as the Kesh had been, the people had that ‘coastal’ feel and the salty seagull filled air was refreshing. I bought a few pieces of treasure and chatted to shop owners til I was hungry and ready for a meal. I found Naima & her husband, Hamid’s shop and promptly died.
Their boutique was filled with the most colourful array of hand woven textiles I had ever seen. After swooning for a while over the quirky and kitsch home decor items made from recycled materials and lushing out with piles and piles of amazing fabrics, Naima showed me the restaurant she recommended for a meal. I took some time to journal my adventures so far while I waited for my Lamb Kofta to arrive which was mouth wateringly delicious.
Close Calls & Guardian Angels
After I had filled my belly, I returned to the shop and thanked Hamid for the recommendation and continued to shop in the rabbit warren streets overflowing with treasure. I had stopped to look at a jewellery store and was spirited inside by a berber to see his wares. He made me Mint tea and we spoke for a while, he had some cute and weird knickknacks and jewellery that intrigued me.
Next thing I knew, Naima was calling me to say Hamid had seen me whisked into the shop, She warned me not to buy anything as it was not good quality and the man was not honest. Naima kindly offered to show me to the silver markets the next day where all the locals shopped for their jewellery. I deftly came up with an excuse to leave immediately and made my escape promptly taking a wrong turn and finding myself in a part of town that did not feel so safe! Regaining my bearings and making a beeline for the square that I could easily navigate home from, I hauled my blistered feet and tired ass home for the evening.
Horseback Tour
The next day I rode a horse along the beach for a few km’s, climbed sand dunes and navigated through the bush behind Anwar on his white mare Ulysses. Christoff was the name of my steed, he was a little prickly to begin with but we warmed to each other, he even helped me up the massive sand dunes at one point! We found the oasis which is in no way like the lavish scene’s of oasis’ that you see in the movies. If I had been expecting that I would have been disappointed!
Anwar and I set to preparing a camping tagine chicken stew which seemed super simple and tasted incredible! We got a fire going, settled in for a chat as we chopped veges and added spices and set it to cook on the fire. Anwar showed off his bareback riding skills and we chatted and he told me of his family and Berber heritage. We had a few cattle from a local farmers herd come to the trough for a drink of fresh spring water.
After yet another completely filled belly and a quick rest, we made our way back to town. It was an amazing way to see the coast and get a feel for the local way of life along side some history of the town.
Back home and washed clean from a day of adventure I prepared for my last day which had shopping written all over it!
Treasure Hunting
Naima met me in the morning and we went to her shop where I dropped a small fortune on some textiles and bits and bobs. I knew that these stunning textiles were something I wanted to bring to Australia. They were so beautifully designed by Hamid and I even had the opportunity to meet some of the craftsmen that hand loomed these linen and pashmina sheets on traditional looms.
She then took me down one of the main streets where the coastal souk teemed with life. I followed her deft turn into a doorway which led through a few twists and turns of small corridors of traditional Arabic mosaic tiled walls. Another turn and all of a sudden there before me was jeweller after jeweller. Little 3mx3m shops dripping with silvered treasure. We found the shop she recommended, and I went slightly mad with lust at the beautiful rings and earrings and necklaces and charms that were so finely worked with love, care and skill.
Another small fortune later and I had some of the most beautiful pieces of precious metal. Some were presents for friends and family, and a few prized gifts for myself. All I knew is that I was content, I was satisfied that I had been led to these people and places that filled my wanderlust and desire for unique treasures that would bring me joy for years to come, I had memories that would never leave me and I had overcome my own self-doubt about my ability to navigate a totally foreign land alone.
The Universe Always Has My Back
I stopped back at the riad to collect my luggage and repack a bag with my newly acquired bounty and got myself to the bus stop. This was the moment I realised I had been so caught up in amassing treasure that I had not charged my phone enough and hadn’t yet booked a transfer to my room in Marrakech. So swapping SIM’s madly and emailing the riad I had booked in lightning speed, I was down to 2% battery and about 4hrs until I could access power to recharge, I sent out a bucket load of infinite love and appreciation to the universe that there would be a car waiting for me at the bus stop, turned my phone off and boarded the bus.
EEEEEEEKKKKK!
Nervously I checked my emails when we stopped for food and found the response I was praying for!
Thanking the gods, I slept the rest of the way back to Marrakech and was collected by my driver and walked to the door of my riad for the night before I started the long journey home via Milan where I would reunite with my sister.
Teary Goodbyes
The next day sitting on the plane as it taxied to the runway for take-off, I reflected on 5 of the most testing days I think I have ever experienced. I loved it and hated it all at the same time. It pushed my buttons and tested my resolve and determination, it tore my heart out and lifted me up all at once. I was exhausted, really tanned and couldn’t wait to see my sis; a thought that instantly made me ball my eyes out. I didn’t know if I was crying out of relief or sadness at leaving, maybe it was in anticipation of the comfort of family that I missed so badly, maybe I was just being a sookie-la-la! Whatever it was i cried my way through takeoff and passed out until landing in Milan.
My Tips for solo travel to Morocco:
- Learn a little Arabic as well as French, it goes a long way!
- Stay hydrated. Water & Gastrolyte in abundance and Argon oil for your skin.
- Don’t try and pack too much in if you only have a few days. If you can, give yourself a few more days instead.
- Be choosey with the tours you do and plan your outings on your phone rather than a map if winging it alone in the streets.
- Using Airbnb to access the local community. Nothing beats local knowledge!